You cross a line. Nothing seems to change. Why should it? Sky’s the same blue. Grass the same green. Air still breathable. Language the same – indistinguishable and unpronouncable.
We’re ahead of schedule. No need to race home. Just yet. Decide to stick around. See a bit more of Bulgaria. And its people. Matt and Keiko’s place far too good for just a one nighter. Start with Plovdiv. Its second city. A 20K Scoot plus seventy-five minute train trip away. 8.40 leva return. Just over four quid!
Its Roman past lies just metres beneath the surface. Like a near distant ghost town. It stretches the length of the pedestrianised high street. A 240 metre long stadium. Built around the time of Hadrian. Before he became a Geordie. Sections on show. Some clearly seen from inside a few of the shops. Intention is to bring the whole stadium back to life – figuratively. Provide a visitor underground view-way. Meld ancient and modernity.
Our paper map leads us a merry dance. It’s in cahoots. Lack of signs and visible street names frustrates. We go in search of the Fine Arts Museum. Ah, a sign reads ‘This Way 100m’ Points us to the wrong street. Feel like we’ve completed a couple of laps of the underground stadium. Come in last. A couple of chariot-less charioteers. We ask a local shopkeeper. He has difficulty with the map too. All street names translated into English. He can’t tie them up. By chance it stares us in the face.
It’s not fine art as we understand it. More like fun art.
We decide to pretend we’re on vacation. Order a couple of Raffy ice-creams. Cost us more than lunch. They’re worth it. Do what the Plovdiv people are renowned for. Chill out. Take our time.
The amble back to the station brings on a not unusual sight. A group of woman busy tidying up. Even though there’s not a pair of socks or underpants to be seen.
A good day ends with frustration. An all time first – we’re very early. 4.40pm for the 5.10pm. It’s rush hour. Hundred or so on the platform. Even though the Tannoy-lady speaks their language, no-one fully understands. Us included. They wait until she repeats an announcement. Start to shuffle away. We do what good little sheep do. Follow. Seems it got pulled over. No reason. Thomas sent on an urgent errand. Henry not due until 6.10pm.