This small and very cheap (12.5 euros per night all in) municipal site sandwiched between an industrial estate and an allotment on the edge of Cambrai is in easy walking distance of the centre-ville.
The Dark Ages brought inspiration to many “Tom the Builders” over here. Their God given skills and imagination raised to life thousands of cathedrals in the hope of bringing light to the masses and there seems to be one around every corner we turn.
We enter an ancient Jesuits abode and are confronted with a hi-tech set up of wires and cables. “Would you like to try on the casque, monsiuer?” “Oui, bien sur!”
I don the virtual reality goggles and find myself twenty feet below in a circular crypt about 8ft diameter, 12ft high. I’m handed a “torch light” and beam myself around the walls investigating every nook and cranny, a kid with a new toy. You can almost taste the wet and musty smell.
We wander over to visit the fine art on display at the Musée and are bowled over. It’s one of the best we’ve seen. The colours and masterful technique employed leave us gasping. The folds, the lace patterns, the materials, the skin tones, all picture perfect. And those eyes, dark and alive, follow us everywhere. 
It’s just as well Matisse & Co weren’t around then or they’d have had us puzzling over our ancestry.