Heroes or Martyrs – words that hide the brutal fact that ultimately they were considered expendable. Sacrificial lambs providing cannon fodder – for each other.
Even so, unbelievable acts of friendship between warring parties were not unheard of. With some opposing trenches no more than a road width apart. During lulls, exchanges would occur – banter, sweets, beef, ciggies, dates and the like. Then they’d get back to killing one another.
On one occasion an Australian soldier was lying wounded in no man’s land. The firing was going on all around him until a Turkish soldier lifted a white flag. Fighting stopped. He picked up the wounded Australian. Carried him to the safety of the ANZAC trenches, before returning to his own.
Day 51 – (The northern loop) – Today’s first port of call is the Gallipoli Museum. A balanced presentation of the why’s and wherefores from both sides’ perspective is presented.
The route through the 80+ cemeteries and memorials is a long one way loop. Indicated wherever a red Turkish flag can be seen flying. Flags can be spotted at every turn. The peninsular is high. Very hilly and undulating. At this time of year and when the fight was on, extremely hot too. We gasp considering what it must have been like.
A couple of Turkish cemeteries use informal placements of memorial stones. Indicating the randomness of the fallen.
Lone Pine Memorial, one of five memorials on the peninsula which commemorate servicemen of the former British Empire killed in the campaign, but have no known grave.
We stop off at all of the major memorials and cemeteries; many smaller ones too. By the time we leave, we’re virtually the last visitors out of the park.
In 1934 Kemal Attaturk wrote this epitaph for those who fought and died at Gallipoli
Those heroes that shed their blood in the territory of this country, you are in the soil of a friendly country here. Therefore, rest in peace, you are lying together with the Mehmetcik; side by side in each other’s arms. You, the mothers, who sent their sons from far away countries. Wipe away your tears. Your sons are now lying in the bosom of ours. They are now in peace and will rest in peace here forever. After losing their lives on our land, they have become our sons as well.
