Days 43 & 44 – Have you heard the one about . . . ?

A boy was throwing beached starfish into the ocean. A man approached and asked, “What are you doing?” “Throwing starfish back into the sea. If I don’t throw them back, they’ll die.” The man laughed. “Do you realize there are miles of beach and hundreds of starfish? You won’t make any difference.” Then the boy bent down. Picked up another starfish. Threw it into the deeper water. “I made a difference to that one.”

On our travels I can’t help it. I inevitably bring this story to mind. Especially when inside an overly ornate church. Its walls adorned with masters’ paintings. Treasured artifacts flaunting every nook and cranny. Statues finished to perfection with lavish splashes of gleaming gold. Or visiting an art gallery, stuffed to the ceiling with ‘priceless’ artworks. Billions of dollars hang lifelessly. Achieving what exactly? Is the preservation of historical artifacts worth that much? Worth more than the life of any human being? Are plain and empty churches and galleries the price we must pay in order to make a difference to the world’s poor and impoverished? Oscar Schindler may have thought so. As John Lennon emphasised so eloquently . . . Imagine no possessions – I wonder if you can – No need for greed or hunger – A brotherhood of man.

Of course, I can’t help but reflect on my own personal ‘treasures’ – briefly. Move on to the next church, or gallery . . .

Oscar Schindler’s factory, although near, is not on our Kraków ‘to do’ list. Wawel Royal Castle is. The main square, our starting point, is buzzing. Columns of tourists curl this way, then that, like lines of drunken soldiers. Earphones tuned in to their guide’s guiding chatter and natter. Eyes focus on the raised coloured brolly, or bright flag.

Those not in groups, find a more relaxing way.
Dressed to impress the throngs. ” Come. Have photo with me”

By the time we collect our own personal audio guide headsets, it’s hotting up . . .

A ‘pidge’ of pigeons cooing and cooling . . .

We discover our ‘tour’ is for the grounds only, not inside the cathedral or main rooms. All other items on the menu are paying extras. Initial disappointment quickly dissipates. The ninety minute, twenty-eight bullet point route, proves to be bullet proof and well worth the £12.64!

Names of the hundreds of contributors to the castle’s restoration in the 1920s stretch the length of the wall leading to the entrance.
A castle isn’t a castle, without a portcullis – or a lady in waiting . . .
One of several posh piggy-banks. Visitors are encouraged to contribute to the ongoing restoration of the city’s historical sites.
Within the city wall, sits the great clutter of a cathedral. A mash-up of differing centuries’ styles squeeze together. Each vying for pride of place.

The whole aesthetic complex sits high up on Wawel Hill, overlooking the Vistula.

Not so much of a mish-mash from this distance.

Today we’re back in town. The rain keeps many under archways of cover. A few brolly loads play follow the leader. We don’t need to. A timed visit to the Rynek Underground soon to get underway.

The largest square in Europe, at almost 9.5 acres, reveals its size.
The dig, well and truly under way.

Sitting just four metres below the square lies a fascinating multi-media exhibition. Artifacts found around the Cloth Hall, lead to a mammoth dig in 2005. Now expertly converted into a permanent visitor attraction.

Priceless ancient artifacts found in abundance.
The most weird of exhibits. If only we’d studied Polish at school . . .

A couple of hours later and it’s drying up top. A demo is in progress. The message all too clear.

“Russia is a terrorist state . . . “

This afternoon we stroll into the Jewish Quarter. Visit the 15thC and oldest synagogue in Poland. Inside, surprisingly scant of elaborate furnishings and wall decoration. Now integrated into the Historical Museum of Kraków.

The raised Bimah, from where the Torah is read.

The Nazis created a Jewish Ghetto here too. We stop off at Ghetto Heroes Square. Empty chairs, each represent the lives of 1,000 Jews murdered in the holocaust. Before WWII 60,000 Jews lived in Kraków. After, just 5,000 survived.

Another sobre reminder. We will never forget.

Our day completes at a fabulous Jewish restaurant. With live entertainment too, it’s a perfect way to end our time in Kraków.

A very pensive Jan Karski. Made honorary citizen of Israel for trying to stop the holocaust of Polish Jews.