Sometimes it seems you can’t win. At other times it feels like you can’t lose. Your miss-hit shot goes in. You get a lucky richochet. Your decisions continue to work out well. You turn left instead of right, but it happens to be right.
Our three days of good fortune start the second our first two choices of site, have no vacancies. We didn’t know it at the time. It wasn’t until we’d pitched up at Euro Parcs De Wije Werelt. We’re in a perfect location for Beastie to become our personal shuttlebus. Just as well. The infrequent bus service is nowhere to be seen. Scoot has to sit out these last few days.
Today we venture into the Nederlands Openluchtmuseum – Arnhem Open Air Museum. Since 1912 its massive 44 hectares has offered an idyllic setting to showcase the many buildings associated with the old way of life in the Netherlands.
We’ve only really thought of windmills as being grain grinders. A clever piece of machinery designed to be more efficient than the horse, ox or donkey. Here they have grain grinders, sawmills, and one, with the use of a huge Archimedes Screw, that draws water – quite a necessity for the low-lying Netherlands.
No matter where we travel. Or what ‘things’ we see. It’s the people we come into contact with, that often heighten the memory. Bring about a greater understanding and appreciation. As part of the museum, there are a few operating businesses of old too. A traditional Italian ice cream shop from the 60s. With very indulgent rum & raisin. We indulge. The young woman at the weavers patiently explains how the ‘of its day’, hi-tech loom works. Even then, it remains a mystery as to how such intricate and elaborate colourful patterns can be constructed.
Over the way a young photographer’s shop is open for business. His studio of the time, set up with a large wooden box camera. Not your average Brownee, For effect only. He has all the garb. Customer ready for those wanting to look the Edwardian part. Smiles optional. Photos taken digitally. Nowadays customers want instant results.
He explains how best to pronounce his name. Guus. The G is gutteral. So you make the sound goose, but clear your throat at the same time as uttering the G. It feels and sounds unnatural to a non native. He’s OK with a simple Gus. Guus is in his element. Super keen. And super eager to teach us all about basic photography. How light travels. How the images get captured. Types of paper needed. How the images get developed. The windmill photo he’s holding was taken with the large tin on the top shelf. It has a small hole in the front. An example of the quality achievable with a basic camera obscura. Fifty minutes flash by.
Our second bullseye sees us visit the Arnhem Airborne Museum at Villa Hartenstein. It served as British HQ for British airborne troops in 1944 and it now tells the story of the failed Operation Market Garden and the Battle of Arnhem.
What makes this museum special are the personal stories. Written and recalled. It has plenty of them. The individual bravery and sacrifice immense.
Just before closing time we head for the basement. Airborne Experience is a visual and very audible re-construction on a small scale to give a feel of how things were on the ground. Though we start off sitting inside a glider simulator. Taking off and then being commanded to “Jump, jump, jump”. Once down we’re in the thick of battle. Bombs, mortars and bullets fly and ricochet all around. A thought provoking end to our five hours.
We can’t help but end the day at the Oosterbeek War Grave. Pay our respects. There is no compensation for a life not fully lived. Yet, as long as there is a Commonwealth War Graves Commission their plots will be forever tended. Never left unkempt and forgotten, when passing generations no longer survive them.
Our third bullseye scores a direct hit on Kasteel Doorwerth. Moated and set in beautiful countryside.
We, and the other paying visitors have the run of the castle. All rooms have been set up National Trust style, to visually expound how life in the castle may have been. The info boards are frustratingly all in Dutch.
It houses a tiny ingenious prison room . . .
It’s clear that the Dutch love their bikes. Dedicated cycle lanes, free of traffic abound.
We round another bullseye of a day off with a round the estate walk, starting here . . .
